Appetizing times at the Crow's Nest

Posted by lushlife

Posted: April 25, 2008 - 10:01 am

The view from the top-floor lounge in the Crow’s Nest at the Hotel Captain Cook (939 W. Fifth Ave.) is one of the best in town. On sunny days, the mountains form a snow-capped backdrop for the city. At night, the lights of Anchorage are a shiny, bustling blanket snuggling the hotel from below.

This was where I headed for my next food foray on the hunt for the perfect appetizer. And though a little upscale, the Crow’s Nest is definitely a contender. Why? Because up in the Crow’s Nest, it’s not just the food, it’s the experience, and the entire lounge is a cozy, luxurious, appetizer-oriented oasis.

Coming in, you have to prepare for refinement, in the atmosphere and in the food. Once you’re settled, you can revel in all the extras — marinated olives, mixed nuts and spicy, seasoned almonds are served in little silver bowls. Everything feels carefully-prepared and deliciously overdone — cloth napkins, fancy menus, neat garnishes and a dessert caddy with a cup of coffee that includes sugar wafers, chocolate sprinkles and cinnamon sticks.

The nine-starter menu is exotic and features oysters, seared foie gras and grilled quail instead of french fries or mozzarella sticks. Prices run from $8 to $16. There’s also a shared appetizer plate ($15), which is the chef’s choice of three small, tasty treats for two people; you could get anything from Kalua boar to whatever the chef feels like putting on a plate. You know it’s a nice place when you trust the chef that much.

Wines by the glass are in the same price range, and specialty cocktails run from $9 to $10.25 and showcase a wide and cleverly named variety from an X-Rated martini (with X-Rated brand vodka) to a Moosemilk (vanilla vodka, creme de cacao, amaretto and cream). At a nearby table, five companions got five cocktails, each an intriguing and a conversation-starting color.

I tried the house-made tenderloin burger starter ($11) on a recommendation from the manager and was glad I did. The burger includes green peppercorn aioli, blue cheese crumbles, marinated tomatoes and greens on a brioche bun served with house-made chips. And it wasn’t a slider or mini-burger — it was so big that I had to stop taking notes and use two hands. I loved it so much that if I forgot the doggie bag in my car and found it two days later, I might be tempted to eat it.

I also had a glass of 2005 Latitude 46 N Columbia Valley Clifton Cuvee ($10). I don’t know what all of the names mean, but it was delicious, red and served in a very chic wine glass.

The small lounge can fill up quickly, especially in the summer. And the swanky-ness can be daunting to some. I have friends who refuse to return because they weren’t allowed to wear their baseball caps in the lounge. But really, you’re as likely to see a few blue-jean clad co-workers at happy hour as you are to see folks in expensive mink coats or local celebs like Rosey Fletcher enjoying a drink.

It may not be a place where you can take your friends for shots or onion rings, but sometimes it’s nice to sit and relax in a place with oak paneling, mood lighting and history.

And it’s a gorgeous place to eat. I mean, mountains, munchies and a martini? It’s not priceless exactly (though it can get pretty pricey pretty quickly), but it’s definitely a worthwhile experience.

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