As I noted last week, this is a new feature on the Independent Traveler blog, a full-length travel article on places I’ve recently visited, but haven’t blogged about. Each feature is divided into sections appearing only on Sundays.

Unlike my posts when I'm on the road, the Sunday Travel Feature is more akin to a full length travel magazine or newspaper feature.

Last Sunday I posted Bali, Part 1 Here's Bali, Part 2.

Our hotel, a pleasant surprise.

The Santika Beach Hotel is spectacular. Not a five-star, but a nice three or four rating. The hotel received good reviews on TripAdvisor one of my favorite travel websites.

We arrived a day early in Kuta located on the south side of the island and as such the hotel didn't have our room available. So we upgraded to a cottage, which is lovely, but spendy for us. Tomorrow we‘ll move into the room we booked.

As I was settling in, my husband ran out to see the beach. When he returned I asked him how it was and he replied, “There isn’t a beach.” I thought he was trying to be funny. Not. Literally there wasn’t a beach out front.

The sad truth is that winter storm surges Dec. through Feb. of this year, 2008, washed away the beach and eroded the bank. One local estimated that 80 to 90% of the top sand was gone. The ocean now laps at the eroded shoreline during high tide.

As the sun started to set, we walked the beach while the tide was out and found many beachfront restaurants decimated, their debris now strewn on the hard dark volcanic sand. I felt dazed and perplexed strolling this once palm tree lined beach to the center of town. The number of bulldozers and graders was staggering.

Beach devastation caused by recent storm surges.

The locals blame the storms on climate changes due to what they believe is global warming. They have also noticed a rise in the water levels and are very concerned about what is happening to their island.

Bali will need millions and millions to repair the current damage. Japan has helped out by building sea walls to protect some of the island’s historic cultural sites, but much, much more is needed to even make a dent.

Kuta central, now hosts a smaller beach and fewer tourists.

However, all is not lost. The Balinese are as friendly and kind as ever. They have a complex and facinating culture strongly like to Hinduism with a local twist.

For the Balinese faith and family come first. Their beliefs and faith are so strong almost to the point of being palatable. At any given moment a celebratory festival is going on somewhere. Be it a baby’s first steps on solid ground at six months of age or weddings or funeral cremations.

The preparation for these complex rituals along with the length of most ceremonies is staggering. It is estimated that Balinese women spend one third of their lives in a ceremonial activity.

These small offerings (on the beach) for the various spirits are handmade daily by the thousands.

Then there are offerings to the various deities. All along the waterfront are little tiny woven baskets filled with flowers, rice, incenses and fruit. The Balinese give offerings all day long to bless their places of business, homes, neighbor’s homes, temples, you name it. Bali is a blessing place.

The island, however, does not have blessed history. The terrorists bombings in 2002 has cast a dark shadow over this sunny island. We were told time and again by the people that it wasn't them. The bombings were promulgated by outside Islamic terrorists, not the Balinese.

The kind and gentle Balinese still suffer seven years later as a result of the bombings. While many tourists have returned, the numbers are dramatically down.

This memorial to those killed in the 2002 terrorists' bombings stands in downtown Kuta near where they occurred.

As a result, many hotels once filled to the gills are empty and rotting. Their owners don’t have the money to keep them up so they spiral downward. If you head to Bali, be sure you check out the place you’re planning to stay.

After a week in Kuta and the surrounding area, we’re heading to the highlands for a little different Bali experience.

(Bali, Part 3 will appear next Sunday.)