BAGHDAD, Jan. 29 — Sometimes my day job as a temporary correspondent in the McClatchy Baghdad bureau leaks into a night job too. We start at 9 a.m. with a staff meeting. The Iraqi staff translates the day’s headlines from the independent, religious and party newspapers and report what the TV is saying. My favorite part is listening to the drumbeats of their neighborhoods.
Even in the Green Zone, bureau chief Leila Fadel doesn't go uncovered in public.
The other day, one of the staff, a woman with streaked red hair and nearly perfect English, told how she had just lost a neighbor. In the days of Saddam, her block was separated from the next by a strip of common ground planted in a garden — a small park. Now the strip is covered with trash and weeds. Her neighbor inexplicably decided to cross to the next block. A rooftop sniper there saw him and killed him, assuming him to be a terrorist. Both blocks erupted in gunfire, the neighborhood watch on each street shooting at the other across the small divide. They got tired and stopped, no one else apparently hurt. Someone retrieved the body from the former garden.
Today, the same woman came in late for the 9 a.m. meeting. Leila Fadel, the bureau chief, spoke to her in a normal voice across the room, but she had trouble hearing. She apologized: on her way to the office, an IED detonated against a police convoy just a few dozen yards from her car. Her ears were still ringing — and her hands still shaking. She had no idea what happened to the police. Around here, when a bomb goes off, you move the other way, and fast — even if you’re a reporter.
We report to the McClatchy bureau in Washington, where it is 1 a.m. when we start our meeting (and it is 9 p.m. in Anchorage, halfway around the globe). When they want our stories, by about 3 p.m. in D.C.,, it’s 11 p.m. here.
Blogger Rich Mauer sporting his new Combined Press Information Center badge — the CPIC ID. In the background is Saddam's Monument to the Unknown Soldier.
That’s my lame excuse for not keeping up with my blog as often as I’d like. This is a good time now, just after lunch. I’ve been unable to reach our correspondent in Karbala, who’s been trying to unravel the circumstances surrounding the brazen attack last week that killed four Fort Richardson soldiers. Karbala now is preoccupied by the Ashura, the holy commemoration of the martyrdom of the Third Imam in the year 680. More than a million Shiite pilgrims are expected there tomorrow. I’m thinking the cell phone network is overwhelmed.
I made my first trip to the Green Zone on Thursday. I needed to get my military press ID. Leila agreed to let me tag along on an interview for a profile she was planning on the prime minister.
Our car crossed the Tigris on the 14th of July Bridge, which, as it happens, is painted a bright green, and entered a series of checkpoints. At the pre-arranged meeting place, Leila and I got out of our car and into a heavily armored BMW. Kevin, our own security guy, watched nervously as we sped away. He’d much rather cluck around us, not see us off with a stranger.
Iraqi parliament member Mithal al-Alusi in the living room of his home in Baghdad's Green Zone.
The BMW belonged to Mithal al-Alusi, a member of the Majlis an-Nuwwab, or Council of Representatives. Al-Alusi’s driver took us down a boulevard and into a neighborhood.
Even though this was the safest place in Baghdad, armed guards stood at every house we passed. (I’ll probably get a comment from the NRA saying that’s why it’s so safe.) Many government officials make their homes in the Green Zone, protected from assassination and intimidation.
Until now, Leila was having a rough time finding anyone willing to be candid about Nouri al-Maliki. Al-Alusi would be a breath of fresh air.
The driver let us into the house, a modest, suburban style ranch home, and directed us into the living room. Paintings of Iraqi artists filled the walls. The floor was carpeted, the polished, dark wood furniture draped with cloth coverings. Not an inch of space was empty. It looked like a much bigger home had been crammed into this one.
Al-Alusi walked strongly into the room, but his eyes looked impossibly sad. He offered us cigarettes from a flip-top box of Parliaments, appropriately enough. When was the last time that happened, I thought. We declined.
Though Leila speaks Arabic, she’s uncomfortable using it in these settings. She learned the language attending high school in Lebanon, possibly the most socially liberated country in the Arab world, and worries she will inadvertently say something deeply offensive.
In the early days of the U.S. occupation, al-Alusi was director of the Debaathification Commission, said up by the United States to curb any lingering influence of Saddam’s former party. A terrorist cell returned the favor Feb. 8, 2005, by killing his two sons, Ayman, 30, and Gamal, 22. Al-Alusi afterward read the insurgents’ boasts on a website.
Mithal al-Alusi shows a picture of his murdered sons to McClatchy Iraq bureau chief Leila Fadel.
In the 275-member parliament, al-Alusi is the sole member from his Democratic Umma Party. His party list received 32,245 of 12.3 million votes cast in the Dec. 15, 2005, election, but you wonder if he thinks he’s the only liberal democrat in Iraq.
“No,” he said strongly. He remains hopeful. “Really, we have to fight to create a new system, a new way. It’s not easy.”
The question of Iranian influence is as hot a topic here as it is in Washington. He knows about that first hand, he said. For readers in Alaska, you should know, they’re no Veco. The Iranians are highly sophisticated, he said. They take the long view — they were just as happy to make nice to him, a liberal who believes in the separation of mosque and state, as they would to an Islamist party.
“Iranian intelligence is making huge investments in politicians. They are very, very professional. They say, ‘You need money? You’ll have the money. You need support? You’ll have the support.’”
He declined the offer, he said.
How did al-Alusi take such a different path from so many of his countrymen? His father was a university professor, he said. As a young man, al-Alusi was an active Baath Party member, but became disillusioned in the early 1970s. With a death sentence on his head, he exiled himself to Germany, where he lived for 26 years until the U.S. invasion in 2003.
While his father taught him tolerance and liberal social theory, he saw it in practice in Europe. “In Germany, a long time ago, my children played with Jewish children,” he said. After he moved to Iraq, he made two well publicized trips to Israel, for which he was nearly prosecuted.
The interview was over. In the gated driveway, I opened the BMW door and almost strained my arm, remembering too late the weight of the passenger door. As was drove back to the meeting point, the distortion from the thick, bullet-proof windshield glass made it hard to focus on objects in front of us.
I thought, al-Alusi’s ideas could now only live inside this thick shell.



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flag this »2 January 30, 2007 - 1:31pm | zidar
While you're there.....
I'd sure like to know why we're in Iraq, what motivated our invasion of the country. The excuses we've heard so far are phony baloney. The war is already a tragedy for America, and it ain't over yet. Who got us into this mess? What is their interest?
As far as I'm concerned, that's the real story.
flag this »February 1, 2007 - 10:48pm | mauer
Why are we there?
I'd like to know too. I'm afraid that story really is in Washington. At least now, since November, Congress may be taking its "checks and balances" role more seriously and unearth what was really going on. And while the journalism leading up to the invasion may be suspect, there's been a lot of good reporting in the last couple years, including by my colleagues in the McClatchy bureau there.
What I hope to do here in Iraq, as best I can in this blog and in my general reporting, is to describe what I can learn about the effects of US policy on the lives of Iraqis and the US servicemen here, and the climate in which it is played out.
flag this »1 January 29, 2007 - 12:47pm | geraldj4
NRA comment
I feel that your comment about the NRA reveals a bias of yours and I would have thought nothing of it other than you pointing it out. :>)
I am wondering if you are planning to do any human interest stories while there or is this only going to be the normal crime reporter mentality. (Sorry - 29 years of law enforcement made me do it.)
As a father of one of the Fort Richardson troops, I would like to see where they are making a difference in the lives of the people. I have talked to enough men and women who have been there to know there are good things happening and hope you will report on some of that also.
Thank you for going there and reporting.
flag this »January 29, 2007 - 2:17pm | travelingtweety
Regarding: NRA Comment
As a life member of the NRA since 1963 there was no offense that was seen in the comment by me. In fact I thought that it was fun to read when I saw it, at least they were being creative while they wrote something that's pretty hard to write about.
It may be real exciting to be in a war zone just because of what can and will happen at any moment. However trying to write about it you gotta try and find some way of making it come alive. The reporter did their job by giving a description in a fun way of what it would look like blown out of proportion.
Ah hell, what do I know I've been up working for the last 28 hours.
flag this »January 29, 2007 - 1:33pm | mauer
Fort Rich Troops
I'm scheduled to start an embed with the troops from Fort Richardson next week. I expect to be out about a week. I'll probably do a second week-long embed with them before I leave Iraq in March.
flag this »February 13, 2007 - 10:36am | aclawson1
Najaf and Ft. Rich troops
Sir, I wonder if I missed the "rest of the story" about what happened in Najaf, or is that "classified" ? I know there was a group from 4-25 BCT MiTT 0810 there. They got to the downed helicopter, they held off the religous fanatics from that helicopter for 2 hours, and not one of them has seen combat before! A few members of this team also happened to find the fanatical leaders brothers and a quite a bit of interesting things in a secret room under the compound. I know there are many stories going on in Iraq, but I think the rest of this one needs to be told! The world may not care, it may be old news now, but the people of Alaska would like to hear some good news about men who left their state, and it isn't thru another obituary notice. If you would like a picture of this team, just e-mail me, I would be happy to share it. You see I am the wife of one of those soldiers, and it is by the grace of God that these men are still alive to tell their story, I thought it might be nice if someone reported it!
flag this »February 21, 2007 - 6:42am | mauer
Rest of the Story
I hope you got to read it last weekend. It was indeed a heckuva battle.
flag this »February 2, 2007 - 11:04am | Pebbles
I hope you do tell us about
I hope you do tell us about the soldiers there. Tell them we are praying for them.We appreciate what their doing.
flag this »December 26, 2007 - 3:13am | Dright
Israel trip
It makes a lot of sense to go on a trip that allows you to see both Israel and Iraq, especially if you wanna get the hole picture. My advice is to rent a car in Israel and go all the way to Baghdad. it's not that dangerous actually and it certainly is worth the effort.
flag this »February 5, 2007 - 10:32am | Pebbles
Thanks for visiting the troops
The families at home all over the USA want to know about our loved ones from Ft. Richardson & how they are doing. We appreciate them & pray for their safety daily.
Thanks so much.
flag this »February 10, 2007 - 8:34am | mbrockman
Visiting the troops in Iraq; they need to know our support!!
I read the article and understand the difficulty leaders in Iraq have in putting together a democracy. Pressure from Iran and Syria are tremendous. I am a father of a Ft. Richardson troop and am extremely proud of him and his fellow soldiers. HE IS MY HERO!!! I would sincerely like to see/hear more from them; their perspective, their successes, their commitment. Leave the politics out of the article and report the actual daily routines and work our men and women are performing to build and protect the freedoms for Iraqi's that we enjoy in America everyday! God bless our troops and thanks Son for being my HERO!!
flag this »February 12, 2007 - 6:12pm | Shellie
Ships on the Coast Line
Thank you for being there. Have you ever tryed to see about the Sailors that are over there? Or talking to the Sailors on their ships? My Son is on a Ship over there. It would be good if you could see some of them also. They are the forgotten ones. I pray for them all the time.
Thank you Shellie from Alaska.
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