Should you take out trip insurance?

MARCH 18, 2010 - 5:15 PM

Check out medical and trip cancellation insurance to avoid out of pocket costs.

On my recent trip I encounter a bout with amoebic dysentery. I recovered after getting medication, but was very ill for five days during which I couldn’t keep much liquid down. I later ran into an American doctor who was traveling in Guatemala as well and she told me I was lucky that I didn’t get dehydrated and hospitalized. She told me about a young woman who did and ended up having to be flown back to the States for treatment at her own expense.

Scary! I don’t carry additional medical health insurance incase something traumatic happens. The doctor recommended that I check out squaremouth.com for affordable coverage. I did and found that the site compares rates from 250 different companies for health insurance coverage to covering student travel.

The Wall Street Journal has advice on how to shop for insurance coverage.

When I got home from my trip, I learned that a friend who was supposed to be on a cruise missed her flight and as a result missed her cruise. She had trip cancellation insurance and is glad that she spent the extra money to get it. Check out the highly recommended squaremouth.com to cover the unexpected on your next trip. I sure will.

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Check out my vacation photo album, Mexico, Honduras and Guatemala

MARCH 13, 2010 - 9:58 AM

My favorite place, Tikal archaeological site in northern Guatemala.
I just uploaded 18 new photos into my photo gallery from my recent trip.

My seven week trip to Mexico, Honduras and Guatemala had its ups and downs. The highlights were exploring the archaeological ruins of Teotihuacan outside of Mexico City for a week. Normally I only spend a couple of days at any one site and getting to leisurely explore Teotihuacan for a week was a real treat. The sunny skies and warm temps only added to my delight.

Visiting the village of Copan Ruinis outside of the Mayan archaeological ruins of the same name was fantastic as well. Honduras was new territory and a welcome adventure.

The Mayan archaeologica site of Tikal in northern Guatemala was the highlight of my trip. Woven into the jungle surroundings the site is mystical. Hearing Howler Monkeys and seeing a Toucan in the wild added to my experience.

Lake Atilan was a real disappointment. The villages surrounding the Lake are dirty and the Lake itself incredibly polluted. What was once a vibrant local culture has virtually disappeared after having been steeped in foreign influences over the years. Tourists are viewed as walking wallets and there is always someone waving an item in your face to make a sale. It didn't use to be that way.

Guatemala's former capital Antigua, while cleaner and restored to it's former charm, suffers from the malady of vendors swarming tourists like bees on honey. It is very tiresome and takes away from appreciating the local culture.

Would I go back? In a heartbeat I'd return to Mexico, Honduras and Tikal. As for Lake Atitlan and the rest of Guatemala, no. The country is far too dirty, crowded and culturally lacking not to mention overpriced for decent food and accommodations.

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Rub a dub dub, washing clothes while traveling…

MARCH 8, 2010 - 2:57 PM

I’m on the fifth load of wash since returning from seven weeks on the road. Everything is getting a washing both dirty and clean clothes.

A friend asked me how I wash clothes on the road. Good question.

The most expensive way is to have the hotel do it. We’re talking $2.50 for casual pants, $1 for a pair of socks, $5 for a dress and other outrageous prices. So when packing for a long trip I take into consideration clothes that are easy to hand wash. It saves money in the long run.

Depending upon the country you are visiting, you may find a “lavanderia”, the Spanish word for a place that will do you wash for you. We paid about 40 cents a pound on our last trip, which was a bargain. One B&B we stayed in did one load of laundry, wash and dry, for $10 US. The problem is mixing darks and lights if you don’t have enough of each for two full loads. Ten dollars for a half a load or less is spendy.

I bring along sample, trial or travel sizes of detergent and hand wash many things. My husband packs a nylon rope to string across the room for drying. Or you can opt for a nifty travel clothesline.

An even better trick than hand washing in a tiny bathroom sink is shower washing. I’ve washed capris, lightweight tees and undies while showering. After drying off with the towel, I wrap and roll the clothing in it to get out the extra moisture. Sometimes I pack along a travel towel that is great for absorbing excess water plus it dries quickly.

Some countries have coin operated Laundromats, but I have found this convenience the exception. When traveling with three children I found them in Seoul and large Japanese cities.

For hand washing bring along a universal sink stopper (most sinks don't have stoppers), laundry detergent (hand soap will work in a pinch) and a travel clothesline or rope. Plus plan ahead. Don’t wash several things on an overnight stay. Wait until you have a couple of days to insure things dry.

Next question?

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Mexico City, still a fantastic city and not as crime ridden as it is made out to be...

MARCH 4, 2010 - 10:13 AM

The magnificent grandeur inside the cathedral in Mexico City's historic plaza.

I'm on an unexpected layover in Mexico City due to my delayed flight from Guatemala City yesterday that resulted in missing my connection to Los Angeles on Alaska Airlines.

However, this is a blessing in disguise. I really love Mexico City (not driving here). I'm staying in the historic center in a lovely little hotel, Hotel Cathedral. It is in a great location, one block from the main plaza, and is reasonably priced, safe and clean. A great combination.

My month in Guatemala left me a bit perplexed. I found the country to be frenetic, over populated, deforested with a unstructured political system. When you add in all the foreigners in Guatemala with different and sometimes conflicting interests such as missionaries, medical teams, educators, business owners and drifters to name a few, I'm walking away with mixed feelings.

I find Mexico in general very cohesive with a strong culture and little outside influences to disturb. The people overall are loving and gentle. I've always enjoyed visiting the country.

So it is nice to be back for 24 hours and enjoy this wonderful city with all its history. Unfortunately, the internal crime problem gives the whole country a bad name, but when you are a visitor if you take normal precautions, the same ones you would in any large American city, you don't have to be paranoid.

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Chicken buses, local fare in Guatemala

MARCH 2, 2010 - 7:54 AM

Chicken buses employee a driver and scout to watch for passengers, load luggage and signal stops.

Ever wondered where America's used school buses end up. One place is Guatemala where they are revamped into public transportation buses called Camionetas and nicknamed Chicken buses.

Occasionally I've spotted a school bus in its original state with the school district blackened out. More commonly the buses are pimped out with flashy chrome and bright paint.

Here two Chicken bus drivers play chicken on a corner that doesn't allow room for both to turn at once.

They are bought at auction in the States and driven to Guatemala where their transformation begins. New manual engines replace automatics, air brakes replace hydraulic, wider bench seats are installed to accommodate more people and luggage racks inside and out are a few of the changed amenities.

But watch our if you are a pedestrian. The drivers roar though the countryside and cites belching black smoke.

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Weekends are market days in Guatemala.

FEBRUARY 27, 2010 - 10:45 AM

A vendor in Santiago, Lake Atitlan, who sells local dress.

It's Saturday and the vendors are out hawking their goods to tourists. After nearly a month in Guatemala from the highlands to the lowlands, I'm looking for something unusual, but didn't find it today.

Guatemala is known for it textiles, but upon closer inspection they are basically all alike. One table runner I inspected in Tikal, hundreds of miles northwest of Antigua where I am now, is identical to one I saw this morning splayed on the road in front of a cathedral.

Now the one in Tikal was handmade by the vendor's mother. It took her four weeks to make. The one I saw today was made by the vendor herself, but only took two weeks to make. Amazing that they are the same color and same pattern.

Typical "handmade" goods sold throughout Guatemala by the thousands, all alike.

I've also seen the same runner in a multitude of shops. (Why does country of origin, China, keep popping into my mind.) Everyone claims to have handmade all their goods, but in reality it would be nearly impossible given the large inventory they all carry.

Plus, I'm perplexed as to why they all sell virtually the same goods, table runners, handbags, earrings and belts. Very little variety when you get down to really looking.

I'm guessing that most tourists are on a fly by vacation and don't really notice the redundancy. Guess that's a plus if you're a shopper and just want to pick up something "handmade" by the person selling it.

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Antigua, Guatemala's jewel...

FEBRUARY 25, 2010 - 11:32 AM

The cathedral in Antigua's central plaza just after sunset.

After the hustle and bustle of Chichicastenango, I'm enjoying a nice respite in Antigua, a fortyfive minute drive from Guatemala City and first capital of the country.

Antigua is a UNESCO world heritage site and has retained it colonial feel and presence. It's a place that wealthy Guatemalans buy vacation homes and visit on the weekends. It's widely known to tourists and a majority of its economy, if not all, is a result of the tourists' dollars.

Some tourists base themselves here and take day journeys to Chichi and Lake Atitlan. The city is also known for its proliferation of Spanish schools. Students come from all corners of the world to immerse themselves in the language.
Antigua is known for its beautiful churches such as La Merced.

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Chichicastenango, the day after in photos...

FEBRUARY 22, 2010 - 12:02 PM

It can't be the same town if you compare Chichicastenango to the frenzy of yesterday with thousands of vendors trying to sell thousands of tourists their goods, but it is. The streets are quiet except for the roar of chicken buses (the local name) speeding by leaving stifling black smoke in their wake.

Here's how things look today.
Locals shop from the back end of pickup trucks carrying Western dress used clothing. ValueVillage discards?
A young boy shines shoes instead of going to school.
A woman shaves ice with this old but functional contraption selling ice cones to local shoppers.
Locals travel on "Chicken" buses elaborately painted or via little three-wheel Tuk Tuks.
A local entrepreneur attracts locals showing them how to make vegetable juice without adding water to cure health problems.
A tangle of wires keeps the local electricity grid going.

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Guatemala's most famous Sunday maket, Chichicastenango

FEBRUARY 21, 2010 - 10:22 AM

Sunday market activities in Chichicastenango begin with rituals on the steps of Santo Tomas.

The frenzy started well before sunrise this morning. Local villagers by the thousands got on buses with literally tons of vegetables and textiles heading to Chichicastenango to sell their goods. Tourists by the hundreds got on buses to Chichi to watch the locals and buy their goods.

Chichicastanango's Sunday market is the single biggest draw for locals and tourists alike in Guatemala.
Thousands of pounds of vegetables and fruits are hauled by hand into Chichi to be sold at this vegetable market.

But the market isn't the only thing that Chichi is known for. The peoples' spiritual practices are unique. When the Spaniards conquered the land in the 1500s they also brought along Catholicism. What is practiced here today is a unique blend of the people's former pagan beliefs and Christianity.

Visitor beware. Fire crackers ward off the evil and fires attract the spirits to whom the living ask favors be it prayers for health, wealth or happiness. I'm not privy to the complexities of today's practices, but what I witnessed this morning were rituals that I know are hundreds if not thousands of years old.

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Amebic dysentery, when a good trip turns bad...

FEBRUARY 19, 2010 - 3:31 PM

I think I am back among the living after a grueling five days. Early Monday afternoon I got nauseated and started vomiting. To spare the ugly details, I was very ill for about about 18 hours. Unfortunately I continued to be nauseated with number ten pains coming and going in my stomach.

Yesterday, Thursday, I was able to get to a pharmacy that employed a doctor and was diagnosed with amebic dysentery. I't Friday and I'm on the second day of my three day anti-parasite, antibiotic medication.

This is my first day back online. I've virtually been out of it, but in the process have developed incredible compassion for those people who do suffer from this terrible condition and do not have the means to get treated.

Guatemala has many problems with hygiene like other developing countries. Here on the shores of Lake Atitlan it's major. The communities use the polluted lake water as their major source. Purified water is available, but expensive. I was told that 80% of the lake was at one time contaminated. Even if the surrounding communities stop dumping their wastes into the lake today, it will take at least ten years to recover.

I don't know where or how I picked up the parasite, but I'm just happy to be on the mend.

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Great birding in Honduras...

FEBRUARY 15, 2010 - 8:31 AM

Two scarlet macaws carry on at the park. Macaws mate for life.
I've been seeing the most marvelous birds on my trip to Honduras and Guatemala up close at the Macaw Mountain Bird Park and Nature Reserve and wild in the jungle.

To read about Macaw Mountain Bird Park and Nature Reserve, click this link for my story that appeared on the travel page in Sunday's pr

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Santiago, Lake Atitlan, beauty with a sharp edge.

FEBRUARY 11, 2010 - 8:10 AM

Notice on the inside front door of the hotel.

Today is my down day after two busy days of travel. I'm pooped, but totally enjoying a nice cool breeze here a top a mirador (outlook located in a little tower) glimpsing the serene blue, turquoise waters of Lake Atitlan.

We arrived yesterday in the lakeside village of Santiago at the Posada de Santiago where we will spend a few nights. Unfortunately, the place is so popular we have to move down the street for tonight and back again tomorrow. However, it is nice to get our smelly laundry processed and have a little time to contemplate and gather my thoughts. My husband is off exploring other villages along the lake.

I'm trying not to get too physiced out by the notice on the front door of the restaurant (see photo above). Guatemala is still a dangerous place. Early this morning a couple was advised not to drive their rent-a-car to the national park without following a police car.

Bandits set up road blocks on the less traveled roads around the lake and relieve tourist of all their worldly goods. “You're okay in the towns and villages,” the fellow said, “but don't hike alone.”

The bandits are brutal and strike randomly. There are several foreign nationals living here (expats). One family packed up and left after they were accosted by machete, gun toting bandits on a Sunday hike down to the lake from a popular roadside overlook. Another head of a NGO researching tropical medicine moved out of the country after being held at gun point while hiking.

These are only two recent stories that were told with amazing calm by a local American resident. He added, “It's probably much worse in some places in the states.”

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If this is Tuesday, it must be Lake Atitlan

FEBRUARY 9, 2010 - 4:57 PM

First view of Lake Atilan on our drive in from Guatemala City.

Left at 7am this morning for our flight to Guatemala City from Flores, jungle to the lowlands. A driver met us at the airport and drove us three hours to Lake Atitlan. It has been years since we've been here and like many other places it's hard to recognize. It's no longer rural, but the lake is as beautiful as ever.

We walked around town today adjusting to our new environs in the highlands. Volcanoes surround the lake and it is majestic.

What has really taken me aback is the number of Americans on medical missions here and the number of missionaries entrenched in their call to help the locals.

It's a bit of a culture shock after spending a week in Mexico at Teotihuacan, the archeological ruins of Copan in Honduras and then to the remote Mayan ruins of Tikal.

Tonight I'm sitting in an American built hotel on the Lake. I'm surrounded by expats and have just consumed the best meal since I left home, a real close competitor to dinner at the Double Musky.

I even endured an aged hippie group playing guitars. One is the owner of this great place. All three have abandon their American lives for something they enjoy more. Freedom to be forever young. Some might call it not growing up, but who am I to judge?

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A down day in Flores, Guatemala

FEBRUARY 8, 2010 - 2:00 PM

A small boat delivers a local with her fresh catch of fish right in front of our hotel.

Ah, the fresh breeze blowing through my hair on the veranda of our lakeside hotel in Flores, Guatemala. We arrived about 1pm after a short one-hour ride from Tikal.

After four days of hiking and climbing pyramids, we're ready for a little R&R before we fly out tomorrow to Guatemala, City and then drive to Lake Atilan for the next part of our journey.

While our stay at Tikal was wonderful and amazing, I'm glad to be out of the jungle and bare bones accommodations. I don't miss the bed bugs one bit and we'll have to get clothes washed as soon as possible before they rot. Everything we have is in a limp state due to the jungle's high humidity.

Right before returning to our hotel in Tikal yesterday, I commented on my last request to make our stay perfect. I wanted to see a Toucan flying in the wild. Meters outside of our hotel, you guessed it there was one lone bird hopping through a tree. I was thrilled and did several fist pumps. The perfect ending to a great stay.

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Tikal archaeological site, Guatemala, a dream come true....

FEBRUARY 6, 2010 - 12:56 PM

The Gran Plaza in Tikal archaeological site, Guatemala

Tick it off the bucket list. I'm currently in the Guatemalan jungle, not far from where Survivor Guatemala was filmed, visiting the impressive, remote Mayan archaeological site of Tikal. It was one of the Mayan civilization's major cities south of Mexico.

It's not an easy site to visit. The ruins are a thirty minute uphill walk from the entrance via eroded steps and rooted ground. If it's raining, the hard mud ground becomes slippery as snot. (Sorry Mom, not a good description, but true.)

It is amazing to climb pyramid two and view the Gran Pyramid straight in front of you as in this photo. Today was extra special as I was the only one up there for about 30 minuets before two young men asked if they could join my meditation. Why not? I replied.

This is a little slice of heaven if you can ignore the buggly wugglies, snakes and crocs (not the shoes)! Hey this is the jungle and they come along with 90 degree temps and 90% humidity. Plus no air conditioning so you don't want to get downwind of many people. Amazing that I have access to the Internet if only for an hour.

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Bingo, Copan, Honduras, cha ching, cha ching!

JANUARY 31, 2010 - 11:09 AM

The central square in Copan, Honduras.

I'm one happy little camper right now. I'm in Copan, Honduras, a four hour bus ride from Guatemala City. It's what I've been looking for, a quaint village with lovely people.

I'm here for several days to visit the nearby Copan Mayan Ruins, visit a bird reserve with Macaw parrots and stay overnight in the nearby highlands on a coffee plantation. I'm feeling like I won't have enough time here, but I'm going to make the best of it.

Copan has a central square where locals gather and tourists gather to watch the locals. We aren't the only tourists in this village/town. It is popular with tourists from all over, Holland, Russia, and Australia to name a few. Restaurants abound as do good places to stay from bare bones hostels to a few all inclusives.

Copan is a quaint, cobble stoned town.

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Semi-automatic fortified Guatemala City for an overnight...

JANUARY 28, 2010 - 3:37 PM

We arrived in Guatemala City at about 4pm on Mexicana Airlines and rang up a B&B from the airport. They picked us up five minutes later. Pretty darn good. We are staying near the airport in Zone 13.

Guatemala City is known for its crime and tourists are good marks. We checked this out before hand on the State Department advisory list. Zone 13 is safe for tourists, but it is still suggested that you not venture out on your own after dark.

After checking in at the B&B, our host told us there was a good restaurant a half a block down and a half a block up. We changed clothes and went to leave.

She stopped us. Best not to wear watches, she advised. My small shoulder bag that crossed over my chest was also a no-no. She told us to carry only the money we would need for dinner in our pocket.

We squirreled away our meager belongings ($20 Timex watches) and my handbag in our room and passed inspection for our one block walk. It was six o'clock. Walking along the first half block we noticed a young man in a black hoodie jacket across the avenue. He was eyeing us. We picked up our pace and crossed the street sooner than we had planned. He started following and we walked faster until we made it to the corner convenience store next door to the restaurant. We looked back. He had disappeared. Probably because an armed guard with a semi-automatic rifle was standing in the parking lot.

These people are not kidding! There was another armed guard in the restaurant parking lot.

We sat down and ordered dinner and then began wondering how we would make the short walk back if this character was still around. Dinner would take us an hour or so and it would be dark by then.

You talk about intimidating and weird. Over a couple of beers we considered our options. The best option seemed to be ask the guard to watch us until we reached the end of the block and then hot foot it out once we were around the corner and within running distance of our B&B.

We did just that and surprisingly the guard was happy to oblige like people asked him to watch them everyday. Maybe they do.

The following morning on our way to the bus station we noticed armed guards all over the place. Guatemala is a heavily fortified city. Thank heavens we decided not to rent a car here and go by bus which has a fellow literally riding shotgun.

Hopefully the little village of Copan in Honduras will be much more restful than Mexico City and Guatemala City. While Teotihuacan was wonderful, driving in Mexico City and walking in Guatemala City are not my idea of vacations.

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Made it back to Mexico City and out to Guatemala...

JANUARY 26, 2010 - 7:12 PM

I wish I could say that the drive back to Mexico City from Teotihuacan was nothing like the drive there, but I can't. With written directions from the staff at our hotel, we made it (via Hwy 132, 140 & 145) to the toll road (during the day) that was built to take vehicles straight to the Mexico City airport. Not.

The road went straight to the outskirts of Mexico City and plopped us on a four-lane avenue several miles from the airport. Major signage disappeared except for the occasionally small "Areoporto" sign so we kept driving straight. Then we saw airplanes, but no directions to the terminal.

The next thing we knew we were driving past the airport and into central Mexico City. We got off the heavily trafficed road and stopped to ask where the airport was. It was behind us. Like duh! But how did we miss the turnoff?

After an hour or so of weaving our way through back streets dodging trucks, vans, cars, dogs, street vendors and pedestrians, we finally found familiar terrritory. After visiting terminal 2 and then terminal 1, with the help of our lucky stars and a friendly taxi driver that gave us good directions, we finally found the rental car drop off.

I'm totally mystified how people learn their way around Mexico City. They must be born with a GPS in their head. Given the lack of signage, crazy drivers and crazy roads, I can't think of any other way they can navigate.

We are now in Guatemala City having landed a few hours ago. We're off via bus tomorrow for Copan, Honduras. This time we're leaving the driving to them! Hip, hip, hurray! (At least I hope so!)

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Teotihuacan, the pyramids outside of Mexico City, in photos.

JANUARY 24, 2010 - 12:38 PM

Pyramid of the sun.

Teotihuacan is the largest and most famous archaeological site in Mexico. Indeed it is impressive as the above Pyramid of the Sun attests. Build around 500AD or earlier, mystery surrounds the former residents and the use of the sites sturctures.

Many cactus are subject to graffitti.
Hiking from the parking lot to the Pyramid of the Sun, this catus caught my eye. If you look real close you can see graffiti obviously a worldwide phenomen.

The Pyramid of the Moon is wider and shorter than the Pyramid of the sun, but equally impressive.

As the sun slips to the horizon, shadows create changing colors on the pyramids. Tourists are last allowed on the grounds at 5pm and ushered out at 6pm

Catus are a large part of Teotihuacan's landscape.

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Mexico City traffic IS all it's cracked up to be...

JANUARY 23, 2010 - 9:02 AM

I'm on the road again and currently staying at a lovely little hotel adjacent to the entrance of Mexico's leading pre-hispanic archaeological site, Teotihuacan or more popularly known as the Pyramids. The massive Pyramids of the Sun and Moon are North America's version of Giza's pyramids.

Getting here was a combination of patience, prayer and stupidity. After flying straight from Anchorage via three flights, we arrived mid-day and decided to pick up our rent-a-car a day early. After all it is only a thirty-mile drive to our hotel.

This was our first mistake. We had planned to overnight near the airport and pick up the car the following day so we would be well rested and have plenty of daylight to make our destination.

Our cardinal rule is not to drive in any underdeveloped country after dark. No problem we thought as we arrived at Hertz at 3pm. Two hours and three cars later we were ready to depart in our red tin can on wheels. We got directions to the toll road that would take us directly here. I had already purchased a ten dollar map and the attendant drew us another as well.

Straight away we found the roads were poorly marked and the driving culture something out of a horror movie. Cars and trucks speed whenever they can disregarding speed limits. They dart in and out of traffic like crazy motorcyclists. If they need to turn, they do so making cars coming in the other direction slam on breaks. Nobody gives way to anyone.

After about 30 mins, traffic became clogged and stop and go, but that didn't stop anyone from jockeying from lane to lane. Finally when it sped up signage was obscure to nil. We made several wrong turns having to retrace our steps losing precious time until sunset.

Finally we ended up on Highway 85, but couldn't find the Highway 85 toll road. We joined the throngs racing through small towns and trying not to get our butts run over. Highway 85, the one to our destination, somehow became Highway 136, then Highway 132 and then Highway 142.

We were totally lost and it was getting jet black. I began having visions of pulling over and sleeping in the car as the areas we had traveleding through were industrial or non-tourist. About 30 minutes later we saw the sign: Toll road to the Pyramids. We got on and within about 15 minutes we took a off ramp and five minutes later we were at our hotel. The Gods were with us.

We made it to our destination after three and a half hours of potholed and rutted roads, insane drivers and traffic that makes any freeway in L.A. a cake walk.

I did say earlier that part of getting here was stupidity and I standby that! We never should have started driving in Mexico City traffic at 5pm. (Please don't tell my mother.)

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